This will be a short post – I only managed to take four pictures with my iPhone while climbing in Mission Gorge. The tiny camera on this phone is pretty darn good, and I find myself using it all the time.
I was all psyched up for my trip to Nicaragua (Steve and I flew out of LAX later that night) and I decided to lead my first trad climb. Though I’ve been climbing on and off for over 5 years, I have never worked up the courage to do a gear lead. Hell, I only did my first sport lead a couple of months ago.
Following an experienced leader is the best way to learn, and I figure I’ve followed a couple dozen routes over the years. That’s a woefully small number of climbs, but I think I have a decent grasp of the basics and at some point, you just gotta get out of your own head and onto the rock. Climbing with my friend Justin has been a big help, since he is experienced and very safe.
I got on a 5.6 called Beautiful, which I had never climbed before. It looked like an easy climb and the placements appeared solid, but it was exciting to be on something new while having to place gear. I brought every piece of active and passive pro I own, and I must have looked ridiculous, but who cares? No way in hell did I want to run it out or find myself lacking gear.
The climb starts with a 30′ section of easy 5.6ish unprotected climbing. I had been on that section before, and it didn’t present any problems. As soon as I reached the base of the crack (the proper start of the climb), I placed a bomber cam above my head, and I started up. My game plan was simple: I would place a piece every 4-5 feet (stances and features permitting) for the first 25 feet, and then I would increase the distance as I got near the top. I also kept an eye out for ledges or potential areas that would need additional protection.
Everything went smoothly, and I felt confident in all my placements. I used a few cams, a tri-cam, and a couple of nuts. I tried to mix it up and go with passive pro if it would fit. What a rush! A girl down below was making fun of my hexes. I guess these things have gone out of style.
Once I reached the bolts, I set up a sling anchor my new climber-friend Johnny lowered me off. Then he cleaned the route on top rope, and everything went swimmingly.
Later that day, we moved over to a 5.9 crack that I contemplated leading. After sussing it out on TR, I realized that it wasn’t going to happen. The final 8-10 feet of the climb is rather arduous, with no good stances to place protection. I knew that if I led this thing, I would probably have to run it out and just gun for the top, or risk falling while fumbling around with the rack. No thanks.
